Atlantic, Forest & Freetown

Where the rainforest meets the sea

An independent magazine about Sierra Leone — Freetown on the peninsula, the Banana Islands, Tiwai in the Moa, and the last Atlantic edge of the Upper Guinea forest.

402 km
Of Atlantic coast
Freetown
On the peninsula
Tiwai
Island sanctuary

Featured destinations

All guides →
Western Area · City

Freetown peninsula

Hills over the harbour, Cotton Tree shade, and the long drop from Leicester Peak down to the Atlantic road.

Western Area · Islands

Banana Islands

A short boat from Kent. Fishing boats on the sand, forest on the ridge, and a night with no generator hum.

South · Forest

Tiwai Island

The Moa around an island of primates. Dawn walks, colobus in the canopy, and the river as the only road.

Western Area · Beach

Lumley & River No. 2

City sand at Lumley, then the peninsula road to a quieter bay. Swim before the afternoon rain.

Into the Upper Guinea forest

From Bo toward Tiwai, then north toward Outamba-Kilimi — forest that still holds chimpanzees, river crossings by dugout, and nights when the rain on the zinc roof is the whole soundtrack.

A slow itinerary by bush taxi and boat, sleeping in research camps and family houses in Kenema.

Read the forest guide →

Islands, river & peninsula

More stories →
Western Area · 8 min

Tacugama

Chimpanzee sanctuary in the hills above Freetown. Walk the trails, listen before you look.

Sherbro · 7 min

Bonthe

The old river town. Mangroves, fishing canoes, and a pace that still follows the tide.

Sierra Leone River · 6 min

Bunce Island

The fort in the estuary. A short boat from Freetown, and a history that should be walked slowly.

Coast and canopy, four times a year

Long reads on Freetown, the islands, and the forest interior. Photographed from the peninsula to Koinadugu, printed ad-free, posted from Freetown.

Issues / year
4
Pages
~120
Since
2020